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A mechanical watch, the movement

A luxury product page: an open-worked movement where every wheel, jewel and spring opens its part.

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In words

Everything on this diagram

The same content as the picture, as text: every part and what it says when you open it.

Case

Polished steel around the movement, with a sapphire crystal over the dial and often a second one at the back so the movement can be seen.

Typically
Stainless steel
Crystal
Sapphire, front and back
Water resistance
Set by the gaskets, not the case alone

Main plate

The foundation every wheel pivots in. Finished with overlapping circular graining - perlage - which is decoration, and also hides scratches.

Material
Brass, rhodium-plated
Finish
Perlage (circular graining)

Mainspring barrel

A drum holding the coiled mainspring. Winding tightens the spring; as it slowly unwinds it turns the barrel, whose teeth drive everything else. Energy flow: step 1.

Holds
The mainspring
Power reserve
Typically 40–70 hours
Energy flow
Step 1 of 6

Barrel bridge

Holds the top pivot of the barrel. Bridges are where watchmakers show their finishing: bevelled edges and Geneva stripes.

Finish: Côtes de Genève, bevelled edges

Centre wheel

Turns once an hour, and carries the minute hand on the other side of the dial. Energy flow: step 2.

Turns
Once an hour
Carries
The minute hand
Energy flow
Step 2 of 6

Third wheel

Steps the speed up between the centre wheel and the fourth wheel. Energy flow: step 3.

Role
Steps up the speed
Energy flow
Step 3 of 6

Fourth wheel

Turns once a minute, so on many watches it carries the small seconds hand. Energy flow: step 4.

Turns
Once a minute
Carries
The seconds hand
Energy flow
Step 4 of 6

Train bridge

Holds the top pivots of the third and fourth wheels.

Finish: Côtes de Genève, bevelled edges

Escape wheel

Fifteen pointed teeth that the pallet fork lets through one at a time - the tick you hear. Energy flow: step 5.

Teeth
15, the Swiss lever standard
Energy flow
Step 5 of 6

Pallet fork

Rocks from side to side with the balance, locking and releasing the escape wheel, and giving the balance a small push each time so it keeps swinging.

Also called
The lever
Pallet stones
Synthetic ruby

Balance wheel

The watch's timekeeper. It swings back and forth at a constant rate, and every swing lets the train advance by one tooth. Energy flow: step 6.

Typical rate
28,800 beats an hour (4 Hz)
Adjusted by
Weights on its rim
Energy flow
Step 6 of 6

Hairspring

A spiral spring, finer than a hair, that returns the balance to the centre of each swing. Its length decides the rate, and its steel is often blued by heat.

Material
Steel or silicon alloy
Sets
The rate of the balance

Balance cock

The bridge over the balance, fixed at one end only so the balance can be reached for regulation.

Fixed: At one end

Jewels

Synthetic rubies at every pivot. They are hard and smooth, so a steel pivot turning in one barely wears - which is why a watch counts its jewels.

Material
Synthetic ruby
A typical count
17 jewels
Why
Less friction and wear

Winding stem

Runs from the crown into the movement. Pushed in it winds the mainspring; pulled out it sets the hands.

In
Winds
Pulled out
Sets the time

Crown

The knurled knob you turn to wind the watch and set the time. Screw-down crowns seal against water.

Turned
Winds the mainspring
Pulled
Sets the time