Case
Polished steel around the movement, with a sapphire crystal over the dial and often a second one at the back so the movement can be seen.
- Typically
- Stainless steel
- Crystal
- Sapphire, front and back
- Water resistance
- Set by the gaskets, not the case alone
Main plate
The foundation every wheel pivots in. Finished with overlapping circular graining - perlage - which is decoration, and also hides scratches.
- Material
- Brass, rhodium-plated
- Finish
- Perlage (circular graining)
Mainspring barrel
A drum holding the coiled mainspring. Winding tightens the spring; as it slowly unwinds it turns the barrel, whose teeth drive everything else. Energy flow: step 1.
- Holds
- The mainspring
- Power reserve
- Typically 40–70 hours
- Energy flow
- Step 1 of 6
Barrel bridge
Holds the top pivot of the barrel. Bridges are where watchmakers show their finishing: bevelled edges and Geneva stripes.
Finish: Côtes de Genève, bevelled edges
Centre wheel
Turns once an hour, and carries the minute hand on the other side of the dial. Energy flow: step 2.
- Turns
- Once an hour
- Carries
- The minute hand
- Energy flow
- Step 2 of 6
Third wheel
Steps the speed up between the centre wheel and the fourth wheel. Energy flow: step 3.
- Role
- Steps up the speed
- Energy flow
- Step 3 of 6
Fourth wheel
Turns once a minute, so on many watches it carries the small seconds hand. Energy flow: step 4.
- Turns
- Once a minute
- Carries
- The seconds hand
- Energy flow
- Step 4 of 6
Train bridge
Holds the top pivots of the third and fourth wheels.
Finish: Côtes de Genève, bevelled edges
Escape wheel
Fifteen pointed teeth that the pallet fork lets through one at a time - the tick you hear. Energy flow: step 5.
- Teeth
- 15, the Swiss lever standard
- Energy flow
- Step 5 of 6
Pallet fork
Rocks from side to side with the balance, locking and releasing the escape wheel, and giving the balance a small push each time so it keeps swinging.
- Also called
- The lever
- Pallet stones
- Synthetic ruby
Balance wheel
The watch's timekeeper. It swings back and forth at a constant rate, and every swing lets the train advance by one tooth. Energy flow: step 6.
- Typical rate
- 28,800 beats an hour (4 Hz)
- Adjusted by
- Weights on its rim
- Energy flow
- Step 6 of 6
Hairspring
A spiral spring, finer than a hair, that returns the balance to the centre of each swing. Its length decides the rate, and its steel is often blued by heat.
- Material
- Steel or silicon alloy
- Sets
- The rate of the balance
Balance cock
The bridge over the balance, fixed at one end only so the balance can be reached for regulation.
Fixed: At one end
Jewels
Synthetic rubies at every pivot. They are hard and smooth, so a steel pivot turning in one barely wears - which is why a watch counts its jewels.
- Material
- Synthetic ruby
- A typical count
- 17 jewels
- Why
- Less friction and wear
Winding stem
Runs from the crown into the movement. Pushed in it winds the mainspring; pulled out it sets the hands.
- In
- Winds
- Pulled out
- Sets the time
Crown
The knurled knob you turn to wind the watch and set the time. Screw-down crowns seal against water.
- Turned
- Winds the mainspring
- Pulled
- Sets the time